French Terry vs Fleece: Which Fabric for Your Hoodies & Sweats?

French terry and fleece are the two fabrics behind almost every hoodie, sweatshirt, and jogger on the market. They look similar on a product page, but they feel and perform very differently — and choosing the wrong one for your product or season is a common, costly mistake. Here's how to decide.

The Core Difference: What's on the Inside

Both fabrics start as a knit with loops on the back. The difference is what happens to those loops.

• French Terry — the loops are left unbrushed. The interior shows soft, neat loops (like the inside of a sweatband). Smooth face, looped back.
• Fleece (brushed-back fleece) — the loops are brushed/napped into a soft, fuzzy pile. Smooth face, soft fuzzy back.

That single processing step — brushing — drives every practical difference below.

Side-by-Side

Attribute	French Terry	Brushed Fleece
Interior	Soft loops	Fuzzy brushed nap
Warmth	Lighter, breathable	Warmer, insulating
Weight feel	Mid-weight, drapey	Fuller, cozier
Drape	Smoother, more structured	Softer, more relaxed
Best season	Year-round, spring/fall	Autumn/winter
Print/embroidery surface	Excellent (smooth)	Very good
Typical GSM	240–360	280–480

When to Choose French Terry

French terry is the more versatile, year-round fabric. Choose it for:

• Transitional-season hoodies and crews that aren't meant to be heavy or hot.
• Joggers and shorts where a lighter, breathable hand and clean drape matter.
• Elevated, fashion-leaning pieces — the smooth loopback interior reads as refined, and some brands deliberately show the loopback as a design feature.
• Warmer climates where brushed fleece would be too hot.

French terry takes print and embroidery beautifully thanks to its smooth face, and its structured drape suits cleaner, more tailored silhouettes.

When to Choose Fleece

Brushed fleece is the cozier, warmer classic. Choose it for:

• Classic pullover hoodies where softness and warmth are the selling points.
• Autumn/winter collections and cold-climate markets.
• Premium heavyweight streetwear — at 400 GSM+, brushed fleece delivers that substantial, structured "heavyweight hoodie" feel customers pay a premium for.
• Maximum comfort — the brushed interior is what people mean by "soft inside."

Weight Still Matters

Within each fabric, GSM changes everything. A 280 GSM fleece feels light; a 480 GSM fleece feels like outerwear. A 300 GSM French terry is an everyday mid-weight; a 360 GSM French terry feels substantial. Always specify both the fabric type and the GSM — see our hoodie GSM guide for the full weight breakdown.

Fiber Content

Both fabrics come in different blends:

• 100% cotton — natural, breathable, matte; best for print and garment dye.
• Cotton/poly (e.g. 80/20) — better shape retention, smoother, slightly more durable; the popular all-rounder.
• Cotton/poly/elastane — adds a touch of stretch for fitted styles.
• Organic or recycled blends for a sustainability angle.

A Simple Decision Shortcut

• Year-round, lighter, cleaner drape, or warm climate? → French terry.
• Cozy, warm, classic hoodie feel, or cold climate? → Brushed fleece.
• Premium heavyweight streetwear? → Heavyweight (400 GSM+) brushed fleece.
• Athleisure joggers with structure? → French terry.

When in doubt, order a swatch of each in your target weight and feel them — the brushed-vs-unbrushed difference is instantly obvious in hand.

Make It in the Right Fabric

Potato Apparel produces hoodies, sweatshirts, and joggers in both French terry and brushed fleece, 280–480 GSM, in cotton and cotton-blend constructions — with physical swatches before bulk so you confirm the hand yourself.

• Custom Hoodie Manufacturer — both fabrics, MOQ 50 pcs.
• Custom Sweatshirt Manufacturer — crew necks in terry or fleece.
• Custom Joggers & Sweatpants Manufacturer — match your top in the same fabric.

Not sure which to choose for your product and market? Tell us your design and target retail and we'll recommend a fabric and send swatches.